Gluten Free in Florence, Italy – Day 2

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After a full day of walking the Boboli Gardens at the Medici Palace (Villa Medici), and Accademia Gallery which houses the statue of Michelangelo’s David, exploring the boutiques in the side streets, we found ourselves back in a piazza near my daughter’s apartment looking for gluten free dinner options. We were initially headed for a little place she had been wanting to try when we passed this Ristorante, and I mentioned to the girls how good the mussels looked on someones plate, as we had passed through earlier that day. We stopped to check the menu, and a kind gentlemen came over to ask if we were hungry. We let him know his menu looked good but we had gluten intolerance (senza glutine) issues. Well, well, well…comes to pass they had new ownership and had incorporated ‘senza glutine’ as part of their menu, which is why my daughter had not noticed it prior.

It was still fairly temperate from the warm day (in march, it can be quite cool, but we lucked out on beautiful weather) so chose to sit outside, since the Piazza della Signoria is beautiful with statues everywhere and a giant fountain that is lit at night.

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We had a wonderful meal and all our dishes were delicious. My daughters ordered a gluten free pizza that was absolutely killer to die for. The crust, unlike american GF, was soft, tender and flavorful. (American GF tends to be like a cracker or at the very least, chewy or crispy). Italian pizzas are not like american, where quantity seems to be preferred over quality. This pizza had high quality toppings which shined in its simplicity. I will take a pizza like this any day over the cheese laden gut bombs in good ole USA. I’m not knocking American pizza, its just that it is very different and if you travel expecting it to be the same, you will be disappointed. But then, if you travel expecting it to be like ‘home’, you are missing the point of traveling.

Pancetta & Mushroom (Fungi) GF Pizza:

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I asked the waiter if he had a antipasti he recommended, and he brought me this beautiful platter with fresh greens, juicy sweet little tomatoes, prosciutto, salami and two little crostini, one with a savory mushroom topping, the other a traditional bruschetta. The quality was excellent, and the meats could be shared with the girls :

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For our Secondi, the girls went for pasta, and I got the wild boar. I tasted theirs, they tasted mine. All were amazing, the pasta was perfectly cooked, the sauces were simple but complex in flavor. I know a good sauce, and these were made from scratch, well balanced and flavors fully developed. Bolognese sauce can be amazing or gross, depending upon the skill and time put in to making the sauce. This was amazing. (3 amazings…yes, it really was that delicious! Sorry for the half eaten plate, the girls were diving in to it before I could grab my camera!) Notice how it’s not sauce heavy? That is the way it should be served.

GF Pasta Bolognese:

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My Wild Boar:

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Doesn’t that look so yummy you want to eat the screen??? I know, and trust me, it was! Please be adventurous! Wild boar is a local favorite, and it’s hard to go wrong ordering what the locals eat.

I don’t have a dessert to recommend, other than panna cotta here. But with so many gelato stores nearby, it’s not a hardship. I would highly recommend a grappa to go with your espresso! They have a lovely selection here by the glass. I had the waiter recommend one for me, based on my after dinner drink tastes.

While I was searching the internet for appropriate links, I saw some negative reviews by american tourists of this place. I will reiterate that this Ristorante is under new ownership, and they are very proud of the new menu and quality of food they serve. I found the waiter and staff to be helpful, charming and well versed on their menu. An important point to make is that this place is unlike other eateries we visited throughout our trip. This one did NOT have the service included, so they DID run on tips. Some might be put off by the waiter informing them of this, but please, do not be offended. They are merely letting you know that the tip is not automatically included in the price, as it is in most establishments. Therefore, it is up to you to tip. In the rest of the places we ate they had “Service Compris” which means they automatically add in 15%. Many travel guides warn tourists to not tip because you end up double tipping. I am a fan of tipping over service charge added, because if service is excellent (or terrible), I can compensate accordingly. We had excellent service, so I tipped generously. Besides, my daughter lives around the corner, and she would be back for pizza!

If you are passing through Piazza della Signoria, I highly recommend stopping in.

Ristorante Cavallino

Piazza della Signoria
Florence 50122
Italy  Tel: 39 055 215818


Gluten Free in Florence Italy – Day 1

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My daughter is doing study abroad in Florence Italy, and recently I went to visit her for a couple of days. It would have been longer, but chaos and mayhem ruled the airline gods and I was delayed by nearly 18 hours, and so missed some of my precious time with her in this lovely and beautiful city.

We had been to Paris earlier in the week and managed to survive gluten free. Please understand that I am talking gluten free and not celiacs. If you are celiac, I would suggest checking the local celiac boards on where to eat safely. My youngest daughter (who was traveling with us) is NOT celiac, so it gives us a lot more flexibility in our eating choices especially in a foreign country with language barriers. My oldest (the one living in Italy) is sensitive to gluten but can tolerate it. However, she does pay the price with bloating and indigestion if she eats it, so she tries to avoid gluten if possible. Something to keep in mind when planning your trip abroad and having dietary issues like gluten or dairy intolerance: memorize the words required to instruct your waitstaff or inquire if they can provide gluten free (While in Italy, you would tell the proprietor: Senza Glutine) and allow yourself time to eat. By that I mean, you will rarely find street food, which is quick and easy to eat, available to you. Most street food uses bread in some form as a base, and while sidewalk groceries are available, in many countries you would definitely wish to wash the produce before consuming. So, you need to plan ahead and allow yourself time to find a bistro or restaurant where you can sit down and pick from the menu. Sitting is more expensive in Europe, so be sure to allow for that also.

We were in Florence for two nights, and so enjoyed two wonderful meals I am happy to rave about. This post is the first, I will post our second evening: “here“.

Ristorante il Paiolo
Via del Corso, 42r
Firenze Tel. 055 215019

This restaurant was an adorably quaint, friendly, and delicious little gem tucked along a little side street off the Via Proconsolo, that proclaimed ‘Senza Glutine’ pasta. We were welcomed by a cheery woman, seated by an elderly woman (who my daughters wanted to adopt as a grandmother, she was just that sweet) at a nice cozy little table midway back. I believe it was a mother-daughter team, with the friendly, accommodating daughter speaking excellent english, and the mother providing the warmth and cozy charm.

I’ve always wanted to have a chef prepare and serve a meal that they excel at and are passionate about, you know, just winging it, and this was where I tested that dream. I don’t know why, but this place just inspired confidence that everything would be lovingly and deliciously prepared. After explaining our dietary concerns, I asked her if she would be open to just bringing us three Primo and three Secondo dishes for us to try and share. Neither of my daughters nor I are picky, and other than the gluten issues we are adventurous eaters, enjoying exploration of local cuisine. Much of what she brought was naturally gluten free, but as requested by my youngest, we did have a pasta dish included. It was ALL delicious, delectable and completely reflective of regionally prepared, good home cooking.

(I will apologize for some of the photos being not super clear. I have a new camera and I’m still figuring it out!)

Primo Course
Risotto with duck Ragu:

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Risotto Nero with Seafood:

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Gluten Free (done perfectly al dente) with organic zucchini, tomatoes and eggplant ragu:

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Secondo Course:

Braised Rabbit:

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Pork Chop steamed in Foil:

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Broiled Sea Bass:

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Served for my gluten intolerant daughter, instead of bread, rice crackers (very thoughtful):

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And for Dessert, or Dolce:

Gluten Free Chocolate Torte with candied orange marmalade. I am not an orange marmalade fan, but this was simply divine. The orange rind was sweet and slightly sugary-crunchy. The jam a soft accent. That is why the focus is on the marmalade, not the cake. The marmalade was the star of the dish, instead of the usual garnish!:

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These dishes were served to us family style and we all were able to sample and taste. It was, in essence, a way to have 3 separate meals, tasting a wide variety of what italy has to offer, in one meal. If you are adventurous like we are, I highly recommend following our lead.
If you are visiting Florence (or Firenze), gluten free or not, this you will not regret stopping in here.


Super Bowl: The Main Event-Day 3

After a few hours of sleep, it was rise and shine for the main event: The SuperBowl! Dressing for the event was by itself, a challenge, as the weather and temperature forecast had been changing all week long. I packed for the predicted 30 degrees, but that morning the forecast was saying mid, to upper 40’s. I ditched the long johns and zipped the liner out of my ski coat, donned some fleece lined leggings, a thermal t-shirt and my NorthFace HeatGear half zip pullover. I had brought my Uggs, but debated if I should wear my Smartwool socks, deciding yes I would, just to err on the safe side of cold. 

First up was brunch, where we met the last of our football celebrities, who entertained more Q&A’s. This morning was a delightful group: Mark Schlereth from ESPN (3 time Super Bowl winner), Derrick Brooks (newly inducted 2014 Hall of Fame), Jerry Rice, and Tony Gonzalez,  who had a great repoire with each other. You could tell, they genuinely enjoyed each others company. 

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I’ll again be honest: since I am not a huge football follower, some of what they said was lost on me. That said, I was absolutely MESMERIZED by Tony Gonzalez! I don’t know what it was about him, his voice, or his demeanor, but he absolutely reminded me of Tom Jones! I just kept expecting “Its’ not unusual” to be belted out at any spontaneous moment! (Um, yeah, I know I’m dating myself!)

Derrick Brooks had just been inducted into the Hall of Fame, and he shared some of his personal moments and emotions as he waited to see if he made the Hall of Fame status. Mark Schlereth was a simply charming man, having repeated SuperBowl experience, and a unique perspective as an offensive lineman. Hearing about the physical toll the game took on his body, from years of defending a quarter back, was eye opening. I guess I’d just never really thought about these men who put it all out there, with the very real risk of having their careers cut short at any point in any game, nor the long term effects of that physical abuse. They addressed the concussion concerns within the sport, and the need for more research to be invested. There is real justification why sports seem to pay well upfront; the back end has a lot of health issues to contend with. 

I learned that for these guys, there is no worse word in english to be called than ‘soft’. Those are fighting words. I learned that these men loved their sport, felt gratitude at being able to make a living doing what they loved. I learned that in order to succeed in their field, you needed smarts, as well as brawn or talent. I was surprised by this general feeling throughout the weekend. All these men were smart, humble in person (I cannot attest for their TV or field personalities, this is my personal observation in a small setting), passionate, and grateful for their success and achievements. I found my own appreciation for the humanity behind the game growing. The press loves a good scandal and over the top bad boy behavior. These are the ones the public hears about, making news for their outrageous antics, casting a negative taint over the whole sport. I have a feeling, more of the players are good, down to earth, likable people, like the ones we met. 

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(M trying on Mark Schlereth’s SuperBowl ring, it was HUGE!) 

The brunch was wrapped up and then it was off to the official Superbowl Tailgater. I have 2 words to say about it: Hot & Overwhelming! We were in the Meadowlands Racing track facility, which was next to the stadium and holy cow: IT. WAS. HOT. They had a coat check, so we left our coats to pick up later, but with everyone dressed for the outdoor game, and the looming dark sky potentially bringing either rain or snow, that place should have been air-conditioned to a reasonable temperature! I was grateful my HeatGear is designed with wicking properties, otherwise i’d be drenched like some of those poor servers, who were dripping in their polyester shirts, vest and ties! There were 3 floors filled with various food stands, bars and music, crammed in to every nook an cranny of the building. There was a ‘main stage’ area, and we watched some of Philip Philips play.

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 Flanking either side of the stadium were giant tents, one dedicated to the Seahawks, one to the Broncos. We were smart to start at level one, breeze through, then move to the upper levels quickly before the rest of the crowd had arrived. By the time we were done with the top level, the timing was perfect to head back to the main level and hang out in the team tents (which had better bars anyway) where it was much cooler, with the live concert music blasting through the doorway. 

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From the tailgate, we walked over to the stadium…us, and a mass of humanity moving the same direction. We found our seats, opened up the goodie bags attached to the seat cushions and settled ourselves in for the game. It was expected to be a nail biter, with the best defense playing the best offense. In all the Q & A’s, the general consensus (with the exception of Derrick Brooks who favored the Seahawks) was that the Broncos would (because of Manning and general team experience) beat out the Seahawks by a narrow 24:22. What I think no one, and I mean NO ONE, expected was the blowout that ensued. Since I was rooting for the Squawks, I had fun, as did these guys!

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 For the number of Broncos fans who surrounded us, well, let’s just say they had a less than enjoyable experience. Halftime was, meh. The acoustics were not the best in an open air stadium but the fireworks were amazing! Bruno Mars reminded me of really great MoTown sound and feel, but the Chili Peppers?? Seriously, put on a shirt man! You are at the SuperBowl, live, with millions of families and small children watching! I found it tacky, in poor taste and boring repetitive music. For the love of pete, even Mick Jagger had the decency to wear a shirt that covered his chest. To show up half naked, prancing about, is just insulting to the audience. (I know some love the Chili Peppers, and to each his/her own. It was the attire, or lack thereof, I have a problem with)

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After a GREAT game, (for me anyway!) it was back to the hotel for a lovely little late night hors d’ouvres bar and fun play by play banter with Broncos fans! Alas, all good things come to and end, and after a long, fun filled day, it was off to bed with real life to face the following morning. 

Wrapping up the entire event, I left with an appreciation for a sport that I did not have entering. It has reminded me not to be judging of a the many, based on the actions of a few. It reminded me that there are real human beings behind the faces we see on TV. I was reminded these are men who have wives, children, parents, siblings, just like the rest of us. These are men who have, with talent and a bit of grace, been able to rise and achieve success, through discipline, hard work, and perseverance. I think our current culture of entitlement and instant gratification has a lot to learn from these men and their sport. I know that I was blessed to be able to attend this event and meet these individuals, but I didn’t expect to be so moved, motivated and inspired. But I was, and I am. It’s awesome when life throws you a curve ball, or should I say – a Safety? 

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